Beautiful Bali

As a newcomer to Bali the first thing you come to realize is that you don’t try to rent a car or motorbike to drive around…not unless you have a death wish. Many tourists have fulfilled that wish. There is heavy traffic everywhere, the roads are very narrow in some areas, and the motorbikes zip in and out all around you. Add to that driving on the left hand side and you have a recipe for disaster!As a North American who is always bound by rules and regulations, seeing a family of four sharing a tiny motorcycle, with the kids sandwiched between mom and dad with no helmets is enough to yell “Yikes!”. Fortunately this mom below knows better.


Through Mike Bali tours, we organized touring around Bali to visit the various temples. Wayan, our driver for our three day stay, navigates the Bali narrow streets and traffic with nerves of steel. At one point we almost got sideswiped by another car which he swerved to avoid and also had to be careful to himself not to sideswipe a motorcycle right beside us! He explains some of the rules. You need to be seventeen to ride a motorcycle or drive a car. It is difficult to exceed 45-60km(28-37mi) with the heavy traffic so at least there is speeding.
Bali, is a destination for many young backpackers seeking surfing and adventure but it’s cultural richness is what attracted us. Of the 17,000 islands that are part of Indonesia, Bali is the most popular of the islands. There are over 20,000 temples called “pura”. The Balinese that we met were very friendly.
It’s hot and steamy. Thankfully the van is air conditioned as Wayan navigates the almost 1.5 hour trip on the busy and sometimes twisting roads to our first stop at the Tanah Lot Temple about 50km (31mi) from Jimbaran where we are staying. It’s mid morning and the tide is still high but you can make your way down to the exposed rock sea bed to best view the temple. It sits high on a rock formation from the 16th century. 


At low tide, you can get a blessing form the priest or touch the sacred sea snake that guards the temple. It is a real venomous snakes but handlers promise it is docile. Chris is ready to go but the water level is still too high to access the cave it dwells in.

The downside of this place being the most famous photographed temple in Bali is that you have to run the gauntlet of stall after stall of people trying to sell you touristy stuff. Incredibly, nestled amongst the stalls is a Ralph Lauren shop! What???
Next to Tanah Lot is the Pura Batu Bolong temple which sits right next to a cliff over a large arch where monster waves crash against it. 


At all temples or shrines in houses or even here at the resort we are staying in, daily offerings called “canal sari” are made by by Balinese Hindus to the Supreme God Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa.
Next we hop back in the air conditioned van just for over an hour ride long trip to our next stop at the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces, a UNESCO World Heritage site. 


Rows upon rows of rice terraces form verdant staircases throughout the landscape. 


We take a 1.47km (almost a .9 mile) trek along a marked path that winds through the fields and then walk through the fields on a mud cut steps and cow trail.


The sun is hot but we are at 700 meters (approx 2300 feet) above sea level which keeps the temperature down somewhat. Balinese scarecrows guard the fields against the birds. We find male and female scarecrows dressed with shirts, t-shirts, dresses, coats etc… their faces individualized with moustaches, red lips or scowls.


A nice Balinese buffet lunch awaits at the Gong Jatiluwih. We fall in love with their delicious fragrant soup and telor bacem, a fully cooked egg soaked in a rich sweet brown sauce.
Again, we hop in with Wayan for another 50 minute ride to reach our next stop at the 17th century water temple Ulun Danu Beratan high up in the mountains on the shore of Lake Beratan. 


The temperature has dropped significantly at the 1200 meter altitude (3937 feet) making me regret not to bring a light sweater over my sleeveless shirt.

The fog shrouds the other side of the lake hiding the mountains which is a shame but the temples are spectacular on our side. The cone-like multi-roof structures tower above like giant trees.

On the way out, you are met with some shops offering obligatory tourist wares like t-shirts, batik clothes, hats and magnets. 
For our final visit before we head back to Jimbaran, we drive another 50 minutes to the Tanan Ayun temple about 17km (10.5mi) west of Denpasar the main city. 

Beautiful gardens are what awaits us. But before going in there are big signs warning that women who are menstruating are not permitted within. At first, there is a sense of outrage from my feminist side but as I read more on the subject I find different explanations that modify my stance.

We take a walk along the wall that surrounds the various 17th century temples within. Almost exact copies of the Ulun Danu Beratan temples are strung along forming a line. 

Finally, we are exhausted and make the final 1.5 hour drive back to the hotel right in the midst of evening traffic. More motorbikes zoom in and around us but at this point we are used to the chaos and nod in and out of sleep.


In our room when we come back, our butler had kindly arranged a small anniversary cake with a bouquet of flowers. We make use of the Club lounge for drinks and appetizers and dig in the cake for desert and call it a night.
Day 2 is spent finally enjoying the resort and the beach. We’ll review the Intercontinental Bali in a separate blog. The beach itself in Jimbaran is great for long walks. At high tide the surf can be powerful making it great for the surfers but not so great for swimmers. 


Chris and I got caught walking along a restaurant wall when a wave smashed against us trapping us and the wall soaking our shorts.
The best thing about Jimbaran is the seafood restaurants at night where you all dine alfresco on the beach with hundreds of other guests. 


Tables after tables line up the beach almost to where the surf comes. In fact one table got swept away. Luckily no guests were sitting there. 

We stop at the Menega Cafe which had good reviews. Judging that they had a waiting list I believe everyone else had also read the reviews. 
The grilled jumbo prawns ended up with not much meat to chew on but the grilled grouper was succulent. 
On our final day, Wayan drives us to the Uluwatu temple. 


It is perched on a steep cliff about 70 meters (230 feet) above the ocean surrounded by lush gardens and the infamous guardian monkeys. You are warned to be careful of your glasses and cameras as the monkeys will steal them. We hide our valuables as we come across a few but with the heat of the noon hour they seem too tired to care as they lay on some of the stone fences. 


But at the exit we spot two ladies who haven’t paid attention and are yelling at the monkeys to give them back their sunglasses. One succeeds but the other scampers away in the bush with its bribe of peanuts and the sunglasses.


Before our return to the hotel, we stop at a little cal places where they make and sell Lukwak coffee. That’s the coffe beans that are pooped out of the Lukwak and then roasted. They supposedly are good for you.


Finally we do a bit of shopping in Seminyak to get some of the blown glass that sits on driftwood. They are stunning and we wish we can bring home some of the big ones but alas we make do with two small ones.


Unfortunately our ship’s departure is delayed until midnight so we enjoy a bit of the beach in the afternoon at the hotel.
Our next adventure will be on the MS Paul Gauguin for our cruise from Bali to Fiji where we will blog about the various islands that we stop along the way.
Hope you enjoy the blogs.
Chris and Danielle

Chris and Danielle

4 Comments

Debbie

Sounds like fun, but I have to ask – why is it that menstruating women weren’t aloud in those gardens.? You kinda kept us hanging here ?

Chris and Danielle

There’s some thought that women who are menstruating are too pure to enter and others say they are unclean. Lots of different opinions on the Internet! Now read the Komodo post about menstruating women and that’s wholly different!

Heather Cohen

I am enjoying your journey. The pictures are beautiful and your narrative quite informative and fun. Thanks for sharing.

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