Aaahhmalfi! The skies threatened to open at any time as we arrived in Naples. Big thunderheads filled the heavens above. Our destination? The Amalfi Coast. It is a 50 kilometre stretch of steep hills, rugged coastline in the Campania region, dotted with beaches and colourful villages grappling on hillsides.

You need to have a strong constitution to drive yourself in Amalfi. It is not for the faint of heart. Roads are only wide enough for one vehicle to pass in many areas. Thank goodness we had booked a van service to pick all 11 of us up!

But first, what is Italy without a wine tour stop! Jet lag was soon forgotten as we were whisked to Bosco de Medici vineyard for lunch and help with their cultivation of the last grapes on the vines. Scissors in hand, we cut and chopped the bright purplish grapes and dropped them in the crates provided.

Afterwards, what is wine cultivation without crushing the grapes in the old style fashion of stomping though we must admit that the juices that came out were far less appetizing than the juice that came out of the new machinery.

Did you know ancient Romans would ferment their wines in amphoras dug into the ground? The Bosco winery is attempting this old tradition for the first time and time will tell if the wine will be worth it.

We arrive finally at our destination and are met by the twins Marco and Pasquale who own the villa we rented. Donkeys carry our luggage down the 150 plus steps (I think it was more like 500!). We shudder at the thought that we will have to do this in reverse without the donkeys at the end of the week! But thankfully, our hosts have the donkey ready for us when we leave.

Our villa Eustachio near the village of Scala, is 600 metres above sea level and looks straight down to the famous town of Amalfi. The views are spectacular and breathtaking Lemon trees are everywhere you look. Next to us is the old church ruin of the Basilica St-Eustachio. In summer time, concerts are held and the ruins are illuminated.

During the night, the skies thundered and flashed for hours. The rain was heavy and as we would find out in the next few days very damaging.

The number one the next day is getting our hands on some food. As much as some have harsh words or thoughts above Italian welcoming tourists, we found an angel amongst them. Getting groceries is no easy task when you have no car and the store is a 30 minute walk up and down steep old stone stairs and then sharing the narrow road with cars.


Our angel Paola, who works at the Ravello concert hall took pity on a troupe of 7 of us lugging groceries in backpacks and rolling bags and offered to take us back up to the villa. The women piled in while the men were left to trek it back, albeit without anything to carry.

And what is Italy without wine wine and more wine! Of course, local cheese and antipasti was a  daily treat.

Another treat? Hearing the jingle of hundreds of bells as goats are hearded up the old stone step path below us!

The rain is forgotten quickly as the next days herald warm sun and blue skies.